It was a balmy Mumbai evening, the kind where the city hums under streetlights and everything feels possible. I walked into The Oberoi Mumbai with the quiet excitement of someone about to discover something rare. I'm a food writer and hospitality insider, and yet tonight felt different. I was deliriously happy to be experiencing celebrated Chef Julien Royer's Odette pop-up. Odette is a trailblazing restaurant in Singapore, which holds three Michelin stars and is number 25 on the World's 50 Best Restaurant's list for 2025 and is inspired by his grandmother, "Odette."
I sat down and opened the elegantly printed menu with dishes like Mangrove Crab – Horseradish | Nashi Pear | Kristal Caviar and Arctic Toothfish – Yari ika | Basil | Prawn Consommé. Just reading the description felt like stepping into an actual flavor and texture bubble!
Chef Julien Royer, born in Cantal, France, to a farming family, has carved a global reputation rooted in seasonality, provenance, and teamwork. Over glasses of wine, I sat with him and his team, sharing stories about ingredients, childhood kitchens, and the road to this moment. He came personally to serve many of the dishes, relaxed but intensely focused, making the evening feel more like a shared table than a staged event.
When the crab dish arrived, it was pure magic! Tender and sweet crab meat, the crisp orchard-fresh nashi pear, the punchy horseradish ice cream, and Kristal caviar shimmering like miniature salt pools of delight—it was one of my favorite dishes on the menu.
Later, the Arctic Toothfish, a deep-sea fish, with Yari ika and prawn consommé arrived. Refined, layered, and surprising. I hadn't tasted anything like this before.
The other spectacular dishes on the menu were White Onion Mille-Feuille, organic corn-fed chicken, and the Onion Tart with coffee and licorice.
When dessert came, it was personally served by pastry chef Louisa Lim, an award-winning chef named Asia's Best Pastry Chef 2023. It was a delicious Grain de Café with Mascarpone, Pecan Praline, and Sobacha. She spoke of the Japanese buckwheat tea (sobacha), nutty praline, and smooth mascarpone, and how she balances these to close the meal with a flourish. Her pride in her team was obvious; their camaraderie lit the room.
The bar team aligned with the kitchen and brought in cocktails made with award-winning Dewar's Whisky that weren't side-shows; they were part of the paired menu and not an afterthought. The "Passion Pindari Highball" (passion fruit, coconut, and pandan soda) and the "Mountain Pearl" (pear shrub, yuzu bitters, and soda) felt like flavour companions to the dishes. Sipping a pear-shrub highball while the next plate arrived, I realized the kitchen and bar were dancing in tandem. The Dewar's 15, used in most cocktails, offered a harmonious balance of honey, toffee, and floral spice, with a smooth, lingering finish.
What made the night truly memorable wasn't just the food; it was the people. Chef Royer's team flowed through the dining room; Chef Lousia, Chef Noburu, and Chef Levin swapped smiles as they plated; bartenders checked back for preferences; and service staff glided in quiet precision. The kitchen team at The Oberoi, led by Executive Chef Kayzad Sadri, was in perfect ceremonious harmony with the team from Odette. I felt part of the evening, not just a guest, but a participant.
At one point Chef Royer told me that Odette in Singapore is undergoing a refresh and will relaunch soon. That little future-glimpse made tonight feel like a preview of bigger things coming. I am looking forward to visiting his renewed space soon!
As I stepped out after my dinner, the lights of Marine Drive framed my departure. I carried more than a satisfied palate; I carried a renewed sense of possibility. Because this meal, this evening, was more than fine dining. It was hospitality with intention. And it reminded me: craft, intention, and connection—they belong together.
